Cut No. 03

Ashoka
Cut

62 facets in a criss-cut weave. Luminescent at dinner.

Facets
62
Light Behaviour
Soft luminescence rather than flash. A slow glow.
Availability
Trademarked outline — limited cutters worldwide
Top view
Side profile
Stone Details
Stone TypeLab-Grown Diamond
CutAshoka
Facets62
Typical ColourE – G
Typical ClarityVVS1 – VS1
Carat Range1.5 – 3.0 ct
CertificationIGI / GIA

The Ashoka cut is named after the third-century BCE Indian emperor, and the name is not a marketing flourish. The original Ashoka diamond, owned by the William Goldberg company, is the namesake stone — a 41.37-carat colourless diamond with a rectangular outline and rounded corners. The cut was reverse-engineered from that one historical stone.

What distinguishes the Ashoka is the way it returns light. Sixty-two facets in a criss-cut weave produce something closer to a soft, sustained glow than the staccato flash of a brilliant. Where a round catches light and throws it back in discrete sparks, the Ashoka diffuses it. The stone appears to be illuminated from within rather than reflecting from without.

This makes it disproportionately effective in low or warm light. At a dinner table, in restaurant lighting, in the early evening — the Ashoka holds its presence. Under the harsh overhead fluorescents of a jewellery store, it can look quiet compared to a round brilliant. People who buy Ashokas tend to do so after seeing one in proper light, not under a jeweller's lamp.

The rectangular outline with rounded corners flatters the finger. Set in a low bezel or a four-prong setting, the cut elongates the hand while still reading as a substantial stone. It is not a discrete cut — its outline is unusual enough that most people will notice — but it is also not loud. The effect is closer to wearing a small sculpture than wearing a sparkle.

If your reference is the Asscher cut, the Ashoka is its softer, longer cousin. If your reference is the cushion, the Ashoka is the more rigorous geometry. It rewards the wearer who studies their own jewellery rather than the wearer who buys it to be seen.

Before You Buy

What to look for in an
Ashoka cut stone

  • Symmetrical rounded corners. The four corners must arc identically — uneven corners are the most visible cutting flaw on this cut.
  • Length-to-width ratio close to 1.6. The historical proportions matter; squarer ratios lose the Ashoka's characteristic elongation.
  • Higher clarity than for brilliant cuts — VS1 or better. The criss-cut weave reveals inclusions more readily than a brilliant's scintillation hides them.
  • Look for the cut in warm light. Ashokas underperform under cool overhead lighting; view it as you would wear it.
  • Confirm certification. Ashoka is a trademarked outline; legitimate examples are cut by a small number of licensed cutters worldwide.
From the Journal

More on this cut.

Enquire about an Ashoka piece

We carry Ashoka stones across a range of carat weights. IGI certified.