Marquise-style diamonds — standard marquise, Dutch Marquise, moval — are among the most technically demanding cuts to buy well. They carry more risks than round or cushion cuts, and those risks are less commonly explained at the point of sale. What follows is a working checklist.
The bow-tie. This is the first thing to check. A bow-tie is a dark shadow visible face-up across the center of the stone, running horizontally in the shape its name suggests. It occurs when the facets in the center are angled in a way that directs light away from the viewer. Every marquise-style stone has some degree of bow-tie — the question is how severe. A faint bow-tie is acceptable and often imperceptible in real light. A heavy bow-tie is a permanent feature. Walk away.
Tip symmetry. Both pointed ends should mirror each other exactly — same angle, same sharpness. Asymmetric tips are the most common flaw in marquise cutting and are immediately visible in a well-lit face-up view. They cannot be corrected without recutting the stone.
Length-to-width ratio. For a standard marquise, 1.75 to 2.25 is the expected range. For a Dutch Marquise, 1.6 to 1.7. For a moval, 1.5 to 1.75. Stones outside these ranges are not necessarily wrong — proportions are preference — but if a stone is significantly outside the expected range, understand why before proceeding.
Setting protection at the tips. The pointed ends of any marquise-style stone are its most vulnerable points. A chip at a tip is expensive to repair and may require recutting. V-prongs — which wrap around and over the point rather than sitting beside it — provide significantly better protection than standard round prongs. Ask about this specifically before purchasing.
Inclusions near the tips. Inclusions at or near the pointed ends are more visible than those at the center, and more vulnerable to damage. On the grading report, check the clarity plot for inclusion positions as carefully as you check the overall grade.