Journal · History

Old Mine Cuts and India's Diamond History

For two millennia, India was the only known source of diamonds in the world. The Old Mine cut carries that origin in its geometry.

Until 1725, when diamonds were discovered in Brazil, India was the only known source of diamonds on earth. The Golconda mines in present-day Andhra Pradesh produced the world's diamond supply for over two thousand years — including the Koh-i-Noor, the Hope diamond, and most of the great historical stones. The trade routes ran from Golconda through Surat to Antwerp and Venice. The cutters were Indian.

Diamond cutting in the early period was conservative. The goal was to preserve as much of the rough crystal as possible while improving its optical character. Indian cutters developed a set of techniques — the table cut, the rose cut, the lasque — that worked with the natural form of the crystal rather than reshaping it dramatically. The stones that emerged were idiosyncratic. No two were identical because no two pieces of rough were identical.

These stones were cut for lamplight — and they have remembered that ever since.

The Old Mine cut, as we now recognise it, evolved from this tradition. The cushion outline preserves more of the rough than a round outline does; the high crown and small table reflect a cutting philosophy that prioritised the stone's volume over the brilliance metric. When the cut was systematised in Europe in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, it carried these Indian origins with it. It was sometimes called the "old single cut" or the "old miner" — referring not to the Indian mines but to any pre-modern cutting tradition.

The romance of this history can be overstated. The connection between a contemporary Old Mine cut and the Golconda tradition is real but indirect. Modern cutters working in Surat — which is still the world's diamond cutting capital, processing over ninety percent of the world's rough — produce Old Mine cuts that reference the historical geometry rather than reproducing any specific stone. The relationship is more like a translator preserving a literary tradition than a craftsman copying a single object.

What is preserved is the cutting philosophy. The Old Mine is a cut that accepts irregularity, that values fire over brilliance, that does not try to maximise a single metric. This is fundamentally a pre-industrial sensibility — the idea that a diamond should reveal its origin in the stone rather than disguise it. Choosing an Old Mine is choosing this philosophy. The history is the cut, not just its name.

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Old Mine